Enhancing Polyphenols and Tannins Concentration on Cotton Dyed with Red Tea

Abstract

[EN] Natural dyes, obtained from plants, insects/animals, and minerals, are renewable and sustainable bioresource products with minimum environmental impact. However, there are still many issues to solve related to natural dyes; consequently, synthetic dyes are still wildly used. Natural dyes have a low affinity towards the substrate cotton, so a solution had to be found: mordants. Mordants can also be harmful to the environment, which is why bio-mordants are used. The mordant used in this paper is chitosan. Cotton is pre-mordanted using the pad dyeing method. By using the exhaustion method, the fabric was coloured with red Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts. The colour, absorption of polyphenols and tannins, and ultraviolet protection (UPF) were tested. A comparison study was carried out between the cotton fabric and the cotton padded with chitosan at two different concentrations. The results are impressive. Cotton pre-mordanted with chitosan can absorb more polyphenols and tannins than cotton itself, and the colour fastness and UPF, once the fabric is laundered, demonstrate there is some kind of bonding between the fibre, quitosan, and active compounds from tea. The UPF was also doubled by using chitosan and the reddish colour obtained by Camellia sinensis extracts were darker on the cotton fabric. The increase in UPF protection on mordanted fabrics is higher than the gap obtained by colour difference, which means there are active compounds that do not confer colour, but enhance UPF protection.