- -

El modelado matemático de la propagación del oleaje en ingeniería de costas

RiuNet: Institutional repository of the Polithecnic University of Valencia

Share/Send to

Cited by

Statistics

El modelado matemático de la propagación del oleaje en ingeniería de costas

Show full item record

Liu, PL.; Losada, IJ. (2000). El modelado matemático de la propagación del oleaje en ingeniería de costas. Ingeniería del Agua. 7(1):37-46. https://doi.org/10.4995/ia.2000.2835

Por favor, use este identificador para citar o enlazar este ítem: http://hdl.handle.net/10251/119226

Files in this item

Item Metadata

Title: El modelado matemático de la propagación del oleaje en ingeniería de costas
Author:
Issued date:
Abstract:
[ES] Este artículo presenta un resumen de la evolución de los modelos matemáticos utilizados para el estudio de la propagación del oleaje, concentrándose especialmente en los últimos avances alcanzados. Se presenta, por ...[+]
Subjects: Oleaje , Modelos numéricos , Navier-Stokes , Boussinesq , Mild-slope
Copyrigths: Reconocimiento - No comercial - Sin obra derivada (by-nc-nd)
Source:
Ingeniería del Agua. (issn: 1134-2196 ) (eissn: 1886-4996 )
DOI: 10.4995/ia.2000.2835
Publisher:
Universitat Politècnica de València
Publisher version: https://doi.org/10.4995/ia.2000.2835
Thanks:
P.L.-F. Liu agradece la financiación recibida de la National Science Foundation, Office of Naval Research, Army Research Office y Sea Grant Program. Iñigo J. Losada desea expresar su gratitud a la Comisión Interministerial ...[+]
Type: Artículo

References

Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1972 "Computation of combined refraction and diffraction", Proceedings of the 13th International Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, 471-490.

Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1976 Mathematical models for simple harmonic linear water waves; wave refraction and diffraction. PhD thesis, Delft Technical University of Technology.

Brocchini, M., Drago, M. and Ivoenitti, L. 1992. "The modeling of short waves in shallow water: Comparison of numerical model based on Boussinesq and Serre equations." Proc. 23rd Intnl. Conf. Coastal Engng. ASCE. 76-88. [+]
Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1972 "Computation of combined refraction and diffraction", Proceedings of the 13th International Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, 471-490.

Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1976 Mathematical models for simple harmonic linear water waves; wave refraction and diffraction. PhD thesis, Delft Technical University of Technology.

Brocchini, M., Drago, M. and Ivoenitti, L. 1992. "The modeling of short waves in shallow water: Comparison of numerical model based on Boussinesq and Serre equations." Proc. 23rd Intnl. Conf. Coastal Engng. ASCE. 76-88.

Chen, Q., Madsen, P. A., Schaffer, H. A. and Basco, D. R., 1998 Wave-current interaction based on an enhanced Boussinesq approach", Coastal Engng., 33, 11-39.

Chen, Y. and Liu, P. L.-F. 1994 "A Pseudo-Spectral Approach for Scattering of Water Waves", Proc. Roy. Soc. London, A, 445, 619-636.

Chen, Y. and Liu, P. L.-F. 1995b "Modified Boussinesq equations and associated parabolic models for water wave propagation," J. Fluid Mech., 288, 351-381

Chorin, A.J. 1968 "Numerical solution of the Navier-Stokes equations." Math. Comput. 22, 745-762.

Dalrymple, R.A., Kirby, R.T. and Hwang, P.A. 1984. "Wave diffraction due to area of energy dissipation." J. of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE., 110, No. 1., 67-79.

Eckart, C. 1952 "The propagation of gravity waves from deep to shallow water". Circular 20, National Bureau of Standards, 165-173.

Elgar, S. and Guza, R. T. 1985 "Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory and a nonlinear model", J. Fluid Mech., 158, 47-70.

Goring, D. G. 1978 "Tsunamis - the propagation of long waves onto a shelf", Ph.D. dissertation, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA.

Hodges, B.R. 1997, Numerical simulation of nonlinear free Surface waves on a turbulent open-channel flow, PhD Dissertation, Department of Civil Engineering, Stanford University.

Jaw, S.Y. & Chen, C.J. 1998 "Present status of second-order closure turbulence model. I: overview." J. Engineering Mechanics, 124, pp. 485-501.

Jaw, S.Y. & Chen, C.J. 1998 "Present status of second-order closure turbulence models. II: application." J. Engineering Mechanics, 124, 502-512.

Johnson, D.B., Raad, P.E. & Chen, S. 1994, "Simulation of impacts of fluid free surface with solid boundary," Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 19, 153-174.

Karambas, Th. V. and Koutitas, C. 1992. "A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations." Coastal Engineering, ELSEVIER, 18, 1-19.

Kawamura, T. 1998 "Numerical simulation of 3D turbulent free-surface flows", International Research Center for Computational Hydrodynamics (ICCH), Denmark.

Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A. 2000. "Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and runup, I: 1D." J. of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE., 126, No. 1., 39-48.

Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A. 1983. "A parabolic equation for combined refraction-diffraction if Stokes waves by a mildly varying topography." J. Fluid Mech., 136, 453-466.

Kothe, D.B., Mjolsness, R.C. & Torrey, M.D. 1991 "RIPPLE: a computer program for incompressible flows with free surfaces." Los Alamos National Laboratory, LA-12007-MS.

Lin, P. and Liu, P. L.-F. 1998a "A Numerical Study of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone", J. Fluid Mech., 359, 239-264.

Lin, P. and Liu, P. L.-F. 1998b "Turbulence Transport, Vorticity Dynamics, and Solute Mixing Under Plunging Breaking Waves in Surf Zone," J. Geophys. Res., 103, 15677-15694.

Liu, P. L.-F. 1990 "Wave transformation", in the Sea, Wiley-Interscience Publication. v. 9, 27-63.

Liu, P. L.-F. 1994 "Model equations for wave propagation from deep to shallow water", in Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, v.1, 125-158.

Liu, P. L.-F. and Tsay, T.-K. 1983. "On weak reflection of water waves." J. Fluid Mech., 131, 59-71

Liu, P. L.-F. and Tsay, T.-K. 1984. "Refraction-diffraction model for weakly nonlinear water waves" J. Fluid Mech., 141, 265-274.

Liu, P. L.-F., Yoon, S. B. and Kirby, J. T. 1985 "Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of waves in shallow water", J. Fluid Mech., 153, 185-201.

Liu, P. L.-F., Lin, P., Chang, K.-A., and Sakakiyama, T. 1999 "Wave interaction with porous structures", J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engrg., ASCE, 125, (6), 322-330.

Liu P.L.-F, Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C. and Sakakiyama, T. 2000. A Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions. Proceedings Coastal Structures 99. Ed. I.J. Losada, A.A. Balkema. Rotterdam.

Madsen, P. A., Murray, R. and Sorensen, O. R. 1991 "A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersión characteristics", Coastal Engineering, 15, 371-388.

Miyata, H., Kanai, A., Kawamura, T. & Park, J-C. 1996 "Numerical simulation of three-dimensional breaking waves", J. Mar. Sci. Technol., 1, pp.183-197.

Ng, C. O. & Kot, S.C. 1992 "Computations of water impact on a two-dimensional flat-bottom body with a volume of fluid method", Ocean Eng. 19, pp. 377-393.

Nwogu, O. 1993 "An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation", J. Waterway. Port, Coast. Ocean Engng, ASCE, 119, 618-638.

Peregrine, D. H. 1967 "Long waves on a beach" J. Fluid Mech., 27, 815-882.

Rodi, W. 1980. "Turbulence models and their application in hydraulics - a state-of-the-art review." IAHR Publication.

Schäffer, H.A., Madsen, P.A. and Deigaard, R.A. (1993). "A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water." Coastal Engineering, 20, 185-202.

Shih, T.-H., Zhu, J. & Lumley, J.L. 1996. "Calculation of wall-bounded complex flows and free shear flows." Intl J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 23, 1133-1144.

Smith, R. and Sprinks, T. 1995. "Scattering of surface waves by a conical island." J. Fluid. Mech., 72, 373-384.

Ting, F.C.K. and Kirby, J.T. 1995, "Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker." Coastal Engng, 24, 177-204.

Ting, F.C.K. and Kirby, J.T. 1994, "Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone." Coastal Engng, 24, 51-80.

Witting, J. M. 1984 "A unified model for the evolution of nonlinear water waves", J. Comp. Phys., 56, 203-236.

Zelt, J. L. 1991 "The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves", Coastal Engng, 15, 205-246.

[-]

This item appears in the following Collection(s)

Show full item record