- -

El modelado matemático de la propagación del oleaje en ingeniería de costas

RiuNet: Repositorio Institucional de la Universidad Politécnica de Valencia

Compartir/Enviar a

Citas

Estadísticas

  • Estadisticas de Uso

El modelado matemático de la propagación del oleaje en ingeniería de costas

Mostrar el registro sencillo del ítem

Ficheros en el ítem

Thumbnail
Nombre: 2835-8188-1-PB.pdf
Tamaño: 1.550Mb
Formato: PDF
Abrir
dc.contributor.author Liu, Philip L.-F. es_ES
dc.contributor.author Losada, Iñígo J. es_ES
dc.date.accessioned 2019-04-11T08:16:40Z
dc.date.available 2019-04-11T08:16:40Z
dc.date.issued 2000-03-31
dc.identifier.issn 1134-2196
dc.identifier.uri http://hdl.handle.net/10251/119226
dc.description.abstract [ES] Este artículo presenta un resumen de la evolución de los modelos matemáticos utilizados para el estudio de la propagación del oleaje, concentrándose especialmente en los últimos avances alcanzados. Se presenta, por tanto, un pequeño resumen de los progresos realizados en las dos últimas décadas para luego desarrollar más detalladamente las últimas investigaciones relativas a modelos unificados o modelos basados en las ecuaciones de Navier-Stokes. Es necesario hacer énfasis en el hecho de que el modelado matemático es tan sólo uno de los aspectos que abarca el estudio de la propagación del oleaje en el campo de la Ingeniería de Costas, dado que otras consideraciones tales como la definición de la batimetría, selección de los datos de partida relativos al clima marítimo, tratamiento de los contornos, etc. condicionan completamente el resultado final. Estos últimos aspectos, muy ligados al binomio modelo-modelador, quedan fuera del alcance de este artículo aunque no deben ser olvidados. es_ES
dc.description.sponsorship P.L.-F. Liu agradece la financiación recibida de la National Science Foundation, Office of Naval Research, Army Research Office y Sea Grant Program. Iñigo J. Losada desea expresar su gratitud a la Comisión Interministerial de Ciencia y Tecnología por la financiación concedida a través del proyecto de investigación MAR99-0653. es_ES
dc.language Español es_ES
dc.publisher Universitat Politècnica de València
dc.relation.ispartof Ingeniería del Agua
dc.rights Reserva de todos los derechos es_ES
dc.subject Oleaje es_ES
dc.subject Modelos numéricos es_ES
dc.subject Navier-Stokes es_ES
dc.subject Boussinesq es_ES
dc.subject Mild-slope es_ES
dc.title El modelado matemático de la propagación del oleaje en ingeniería de costas es_ES
dc.type Artículo es_ES
dc.date.updated 2019-04-11T07:27:44Z
dc.identifier.doi 10.4995/ia.2000.2835
dc.relation.projectID info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/MECD//MAR99-0653/ es_ES
dc.rights.accessRights Abierto es_ES
dc.description.bibliographicCitation Liu, PL.; Losada, IJ. (2000). El modelado matemático de la propagación del oleaje en ingeniería de costas. Ingeniería del Agua. 7(1):37-46. https://doi.org/10.4995/ia.2000.2835 es_ES
dc.description.accrualMethod SWORD es_ES
dc.relation.publisherversion https://doi.org/10.4995/ia.2000.2835 es_ES
dc.description.upvformatpinicio 37 es_ES
dc.description.upvformatpfin 46 es_ES
dc.type.version info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion es_ES
dc.description.volume 7
dc.description.issue 1
dc.identifier.eissn 1886-4996
dc.contributor.funder Ministerio de Educación y Cultura es_ES
dc.description.references Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1972 "Computation of combined refraction and diffraction", Proceedings of the 13th International Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, 471-490. es_ES
dc.description.references Berkhoff, J. C. W. 1976 Mathematical models for simple harmonic linear water waves; wave refraction and diffraction. PhD thesis, Delft Technical University of Technology. es_ES
dc.description.references Brocchini, M., Drago, M. and Ivoenitti, L. 1992. "The modeling of short waves in shallow water: Comparison of numerical model based on Boussinesq and Serre equations." Proc. 23rd Intnl. Conf. Coastal Engng. ASCE. 76-88. es_ES
dc.description.references Chen, Q., Madsen, P. A., Schaffer, H. A. and Basco, D. R., 1998 Wave-current interaction based on an enhanced Boussinesq approach", Coastal Engng., 33, 11-39. es_ES
dc.description.references Chen, Y. and Liu, P. L.-F. 1994 "A Pseudo-Spectral Approach for Scattering of Water Waves", Proc. Roy. Soc. London, A, 445, 619-636. es_ES
dc.description.references Chen, Y. and Liu, P. L.-F. 1995b "Modified Boussinesq equations and associated parabolic models for water wave propagation," J. Fluid Mech., 288, 351-381 es_ES
dc.description.references Chorin, A.J. 1968 "Numerical solution of the Navier-Stokes equations." Math. Comput. 22, 745-762. es_ES
dc.description.references Dalrymple, R.A., Kirby, R.T. and Hwang, P.A. 1984. "Wave diffraction due to area of energy dissipation." J. of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE., 110, No. 1., 67-79. es_ES
dc.description.references Eckart, C. 1952 "The propagation of gravity waves from deep to shallow water". Circular 20, National Bureau of Standards, 165-173. es_ES
dc.description.references Elgar, S. and Guza, R. T. 1985 "Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory and a nonlinear model", J. Fluid Mech., 158, 47-70. es_ES
dc.description.references Goring, D. G. 1978 "Tsunamis - the propagation of long waves onto a shelf", Ph.D. dissertation, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA. es_ES
dc.description.references Hodges, B.R. 1997, Numerical simulation of nonlinear free Surface waves on a turbulent open-channel flow, PhD Dissertation, Department of Civil Engineering, Stanford University. es_ES
dc.description.references Jaw, S.Y. & Chen, C.J. 1998 "Present status of second-order closure turbulence model. I: overview." J. Engineering Mechanics, 124, pp. 485-501. es_ES
dc.description.references Jaw, S.Y. & Chen, C.J. 1998 "Present status of second-order closure turbulence models. II: application." J. Engineering Mechanics, 124, 502-512. es_ES
dc.description.references Johnson, D.B., Raad, P.E. & Chen, S. 1994, "Simulation of impacts of fluid free surface with solid boundary," Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 19, 153-174. es_ES
dc.description.references Karambas, Th. V. and Koutitas, C. 1992. "A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations." Coastal Engineering, ELSEVIER, 18, 1-19. es_ES
dc.description.references Kawamura, T. 1998 "Numerical simulation of 3D turbulent free-surface flows", International Research Center for Computational Hydrodynamics (ICCH), Denmark. es_ES
dc.description.references Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A. 2000. "Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and runup, I: 1D." J. of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE., 126, No. 1., 39-48. es_ES
dc.description.references Kirby, J.T. and Dalrymple, R.A. 1983. "A parabolic equation for combined refraction-diffraction if Stokes waves by a mildly varying topography." J. Fluid Mech., 136, 453-466. es_ES
dc.description.references Kothe, D.B., Mjolsness, R.C. & Torrey, M.D. 1991 "RIPPLE: a computer program for incompressible flows with free surfaces." Los Alamos National Laboratory, LA-12007-MS. es_ES
dc.description.references Lin, P. and Liu, P. L.-F. 1998a "A Numerical Study of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone", J. Fluid Mech., 359, 239-264. es_ES
dc.description.references Lin, P. and Liu, P. L.-F. 1998b "Turbulence Transport, Vorticity Dynamics, and Solute Mixing Under Plunging Breaking Waves in Surf Zone," J. Geophys. Res., 103, 15677-15694. es_ES
dc.description.references Liu, P. L.-F. 1990 "Wave transformation", in the Sea, Wiley-Interscience Publication. v. 9, 27-63. es_ES
dc.description.references Liu, P. L.-F. 1994 "Model equations for wave propagation from deep to shallow water", in Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, v.1, 125-158. es_ES
dc.description.references Liu, P. L.-F. and Tsay, T.-K. 1983. "On weak reflection of water waves." J. Fluid Mech., 131, 59-71 es_ES
dc.description.references Liu, P. L.-F. and Tsay, T.-K. 1984. "Refraction-diffraction model for weakly nonlinear water waves" J. Fluid Mech., 141, 265-274. es_ES
dc.description.references Liu, P. L.-F., Yoon, S. B. and Kirby, J. T. 1985 "Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of waves in shallow water", J. Fluid Mech., 153, 185-201. es_ES
dc.description.references Liu, P. L.-F., Lin, P., Chang, K.-A., and Sakakiyama, T. 1999 "Wave interaction with porous structures", J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engrg., ASCE, 125, (6), 322-330. es_ES
dc.description.references Liu P.L.-F, Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C. and Sakakiyama, T. 2000. A Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions. Proceedings Coastal Structures 99. Ed. I.J. Losada, A.A. Balkema. Rotterdam. es_ES
dc.description.references Madsen, P. A., Murray, R. and Sorensen, O. R. 1991 "A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersión characteristics", Coastal Engineering, 15, 371-388. es_ES
dc.description.references Miyata, H., Kanai, A., Kawamura, T. & Park, J-C. 1996 "Numerical simulation of three-dimensional breaking waves", J. Mar. Sci. Technol., 1, pp.183-197. es_ES
dc.description.references Ng, C. O. & Kot, S.C. 1992 "Computations of water impact on a two-dimensional flat-bottom body with a volume of fluid method", Ocean Eng. 19, pp. 377-393. es_ES
dc.description.references Nwogu, O. 1993 "An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation", J. Waterway. Port, Coast. Ocean Engng, ASCE, 119, 618-638. es_ES
dc.description.references Peregrine, D. H. 1967 "Long waves on a beach" J. Fluid Mech., 27, 815-882. es_ES
dc.description.references Rodi, W. 1980. "Turbulence models and their application in hydraulics - a state-of-the-art review." IAHR Publication. es_ES
dc.description.references Schäffer, H.A., Madsen, P.A. and Deigaard, R.A. (1993). "A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water." Coastal Engineering, 20, 185-202. es_ES
dc.description.references Shih, T.-H., Zhu, J. & Lumley, J.L. 1996. "Calculation of wall-bounded complex flows and free shear flows." Intl J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 23, 1133-1144. es_ES
dc.description.references Smith, R. and Sprinks, T. 1995. "Scattering of surface waves by a conical island." J. Fluid. Mech., 72, 373-384. es_ES
dc.description.references Ting, F.C.K. and Kirby, J.T. 1995, "Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker." Coastal Engng, 24, 177-204. es_ES
dc.description.references Ting, F.C.K. and Kirby, J.T. 1994, "Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone." Coastal Engng, 24, 51-80. es_ES
dc.description.references Witting, J. M. 1984 "A unified model for the evolution of nonlinear water waves", J. Comp. Phys., 56, 203-236. es_ES
dc.description.references Zelt, J. L. 1991 "The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves", Coastal Engng, 15, 205-246. es_ES


Este ítem aparece en la(s) siguiente(s) colección(ones)

Mostrar el registro sencillo del ítem